Most oils on the market provide adequate protection.
Ifyou are satisfied with adequate lubricant protection then "oil
is just oil". If you are looking for increased protection, then
you will need to research the differences in products available.
Engine oil has four main functions:
1. To lubricate moving parts by providing a thin film which prevents
scuffing.
2. To cool and dissipate heat generated by friction. Oil is the
main coolant for pistons, bearings and cam.
3. To flush moving parts clean of abrasive particles which cause
wear and hold them in suspension.
4. To seal the rings for increased power.
Every high quality motor oil will perform these functions when
the oil is new. But the oil begins to wear out from the first moment
of use. The heat produced by the motor in operation acts much in
the same way as the heat in the refining process.
At 239F, oil starts to breakdown, and continues molecular breakdown
into lighter and heavier particles. Light molecules escape from
the engine as a gas. Heavy molecules remain in the engine to form
sludge, gum and varnish, preventing heat dissipation. Paraffin based
oils have the tendency to precipitate out the paraffin and deposit
it on metal surfaces in the engine. Ash based oils form less sludge.
The oil is also squeezed so thin from extreme pressures and sheer
stress that the molecular chains in the oil film is broken.
To protect against this thermal and viscosity breakdown, oil manufacturers
have developed extensive additive packages. These packages contain:
- anti-oxidants to prevent thickening at high operating temperatures
- pour point depressants which lower the temperature of wax coagulation
- alkaline materials to neutralize acids formed during combustion
- rust and corrosion inhibitors
- detergents to reduce sludge and varnish
- dispersant additives to hold contaminants in suspension
- extreme pressure additives to prevent metal to metal contact
under high loads
- viscosity index improvers in formulating muilt-grade oils
The viscosity grade or thickness of oil refers to a measurement
of its resistance to flow. The higher the grade, the higher the
resistance, the thicker the oil. The letter "W" as in 10W, 20W refers
to a winter grade measured at zero F. Oils without the letter "W"
are flow tested at 212F and are meant for warmer weather conditions.
Operating an engine in both hot and cold condition makes it impossible
to use a single viscosity grade, hence multi-grade oils.
SYNTHETICS
Mineral oils are all formed from a base crude oil.
Synthetic oil is petroleum oil that has been de-constructed into
its various components and then re-assembled into a lubricant with
specific design characteristics. Oil engineers remove most of the
undesirable waxy components and build a lubricant that is very stable
at higher temperatures.
Multi-grade mineral oils have negative viscosity gradients. The
hotter they get, the lower their viscosity becomes. Adding a viscosity
improver (VI) , a long chain polymer, increases the viscosity of
the oil as it gets hotter. The problem is, where the oil does its
work at the bearing clearances it experiences a velocity gradient.
At the bearing the oil is standing still; at the shaft the oil is
moving with the shaft. The oil is in constant shear stress between
the two surfaces. When the RPM's get high enough, the shear stress
breaks down the VI polymer chains, making them shorter and reducing
the viscosity of the oil film.
Straight weight oils, and synthetics maintain the same viscosity
throughout their use.
Synthetics having the advantage of being multi-grade.
Because synthetic oil is petroleum oil there is no compatibility
problem with mixing with mineral oil.
type |
pour point |
burns |
conventional oil |
-27F |
430F |
semi-synthetic |
-38F |
433F |
full synthetic |
-44F |
482F |
FILTRATION
Equally important in reducing the level of impurities and wear
in the engine is proper filtration. Just as with oil, oil filters
are not all created equally. There are three basic kinds of filters,
each designed for a specific job.
The pleated paper filter uses a rigid sheet of filtering paper
folded accordion-style, inserted into a metal housing. There is
a limited life to this filter both in clogging from contamination
and deterioration of the paper. These filters are supplied either
as a spin on or cartridge insert depending on the type of car.
The full-depth spin-on filter utilizes a filtering material in
the form of a thick blanket of fiber, which filters through the
full depth of the material, in contrast to the surface filtration
of the paper element.
By-pass filters have the ability to filter out minute particles
from the oil down to one micron. Full-depth filters out 4 or 5 microns,
paper 25-40 microns. There are types that use a washable ultra-fine
steel element, that can be used as a replacement filter or in addition
to the spin-on.
Examining the inside of the filter can give clues to the engines
status, by looking for contaminants.
Be careful when opening the housing that metal chips from the case
are nor intermixed with debris from the inside the filter.
Cut the paper element and pull it apart. Look for gummy deposits,
gasket material of rubber from the hoses. Gold colored flake can
be bearing material. Use a magnet to differentiate ferrous from
other metals. Take samples to your engine builder for reference.
Also, since the object of filtration is clean oil, remember to
clean the air cleaner.